Muchacha en una ventana (Salvador Dalí 1925)

domingo, 24 de abril de 2011

THE CULTURE OF CIDER IN ASTURIAS


Apple blossoms (Tiñana-Asturias)


 What is exposed below, not intended to be a rigorous and exhaustive treatise of cider that is made in Asturias, or of their consumption habits for the asturians, an subject that could to fill hundreds of pages. Only intends to disclose, succinctly, and for the more profane on the subject, the most characteristic and peculiar of this aspect, that, forming part of the cultural heritage of asturians, is present in virtually all social events of their life.
Apples ready for harvest
   
 The natural cider, with no additives or chemicals, is the traditional beverage than is more consumed in Asturias, with an estimated average consumption of 50 liters per person and year  (data referring to the year 2010) an increasing trend. Its origin is lost in times, and its production process, except for incidental and required technological changes introduced in recent years, maintains the standards that have been applied for centuries.



Apples to make cider
The only raw material used in the manufacture of the natural cider is the apple, preferably Asturian origin. Only a few producers, with high production capacity, in the absence of raw materials in the region, obtain supplies of this product in other regions of the country, or imported from other countries, in order to market the amount of product that increasingly is demanded.

Partial view "Lagar JUANIN" (Tiñana-Asturias)
Although there are many types of apples from which cider can be made, the most widely used varieties do not exceed of twenty. Except in specific cases of ciders, as the known as “Protected Designation of Origin”, manufactured in accordance with the standards imposed by the Regulatory Council, and the known as “Selected Apple”, manufactured in accordance with the criteria established by a small group of producers that have chosen this variety, the rest, that is the majority, is made in accordance  with the opinion and criterion of individual producers. The right mix of apples, graded into three main groups: sweet, sour and acid, as well as the techniques used in the manufacturing process, will give the differential nature to this drink and will determine the level the acceptance of consumers in the markets.

Place prepared for celebration a "espicha"
The asturian cider production is highly fragmented. Next to some large producers, most industrialized, whose prodduction widely exceeds the one million liters a year, live other, more artisans, whose production does not reach beyond a few thousand. All entire manufacturing process, from receipt of raw material to final product and bottling, is done in  wineries known by the name of lagares. The fermentation of juice, that proceed from the crushing and pressing of apples, is made in barrels or vats specially made of chestnut or of oak; though, in these times, for various reasons, including economic, have been replaced by other materials such as stainless steel or fiberglass and polyester. The result is a hundred percent natural beverage, with an alcohol content of 4.50 to 6,50 percent by volume, straw yellow and slightly transparent, soft aroma reminiscent of the fruit of their origin, and a refreshing taste with characteristic slight acid tones, irrelevantly bitter.

Environment in a "espicha" (Lagar JUANÍN)
Cider is a markedly social drink that is drunk with the family and accompanied by friends, that in Asturias, for the open and friendly nature of the asturians, are very easy to make. A practice deeply rooted in the world of cider, which still exists today, is the test that is makes of the product before bottling to put it on sale in specialized bars (“sidrerías”). Is a kind of trial to which the producer is subject, inviting a group of experts and friends to express their opinion about the quality obtained in a given lot. Of this act have emerged the popular celebrations, known by the name of “espichas”, in which is offered the public the first harvest of ciders, accompanied by all kinds of food suitable for eating with this drink: cheese, fish, shellfish, eggs, sausages, among other. In more recent times, have also added other tasty delicacies such as the octopus galician and roast lamb of argentine style.  The espichas, therefore, are meeting places where, with cider as an protagonist, are invites all attendees to eat and drink, in a environment cozy, serene and relaxing, suitable for all audiences, where, if you have the opportunity, are encouraged to attend.
 
Serving cider from the barrel ("Escanciando")
 An essential feature that differentiates the asturian cider from all other, is his peculiar way of serving. The liquid is poured into freefall over the glass, which is placed in inclined position in one hand, while holding the bottle, arm raised, in the other; in this way, hitting the cider over the edge of the glass, is released a portion of the carbon dioxide it contains and its oxygenation occurs,  being possible to appreciate, thus, all its organoleptic characteristics. This operation is known by the name of “escanciado”. The glass used, specifically designed for this task, is of crystal, very large and very fine. The amount of cider that is deposited on the glass, between 100 and 120 cubic centimeters, should be drunk immediately, leaving a small residual amount that is pulled to wash the rim of the glass through which you have drunk, because, as usual, this is often shared with other drinkers. The escanciado of cider and the temperature at which must be served, which should be preferably between 12 and 14 degrees Celsius, with lower limit of 10 and top limit of 16, are vital in order to enjoy this beverage in its fullness. Although there are plenty of bars in Asturias selling cider scattered across all its geography, the reality is that the establishments in which you can taste with full warranty, combining quality with proper service, are rather scarce.

Serving cider from the bottle ("Escanciado")


 In Asturias, the harvesting of apples is between September and October of each year, so that the first cider of the new crop can be ready for consumption between the months of March and April the following year. For this reason, the most “espichas” that are organized in the region coincide with the celebrations of Holy Week, providing, thus, an added attraction for tourists.


Detail of "escanciado"

From the point of view of health, the cider, taken in moderation, increases the vitality and improves some cognitive processes, such as empathy and imagination, and, in particular, the loquacity. Are also known eupeptic and diuretic properties, improving digestive processes and renal function.

 If this brief introduction serves to arouse the interest of any of the readers of this blog, inside a world so rich and complex as the cider, I will feel fully satisfied.
 
C. Díaz Fdez.

Oviedo, April 24, 2011


MARGINAL NOTES:

You can see an article about "escanciado" of the cider in direct link next. (Only in Spanish Language)

https://sites.google.com/site/tantino0642/escanciando-sidra


If you are interested in knowing more about the world of Asturian cider, you can see the page of the blog "Tantino 642", entitled "Curiosities about the world of Asturian cider", using the following direct link:

https://sites.google.com/site/tantino0642/curiosidades-sobre-la-sidra-asturiana?authuser=0


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